Dear All - spring definitely arrived this month, with blue skies, sunshine and longer days enticing everyone out to enjoy warmer air and see what's new in the shops. We are so happy that our brides have had sunny weather for their weddings this spring and especially Georgiana and Piers, featured below. 

Pretty in Pink

We made a beautiful dress and coat for Georgiana a couple of years ago when she was mother of the bride, so it was wonderful news when she excitedly asked us to design a dress for her own wedding.  Initially her fabric colour choice was light blue, which suits her so well, but we also looked at palest pinks which we both loved. The softest pink complimented her complexion and we agreed it would be the perfect choice for her wedding dress.

The base of the dress was a silk / wool mix fabric which tailors really well and moulds beautifully to the body.  The over layer, an Italian silk georgette, was cut fuller from the hips to give more flare and movement.  We designed a centre front opening with feature covered button fastening, so the georgette flowed showing the skirt layer underneath.

The finishing touches were a narrow roll collar, and cuffs with button detail. We loved seeing pictures of Georgiana and Piers on their special day. In Georgiana's own words, "It was the most amazing day. I had so many people wanting to know who had made my dress. It really was perfect. Thank you!". It was an absolute joy working with Georgiana to create her dress and we're so happy that she was delighted with the end result.

Bride of The Month

When Emily arrived for her bridal consultation she wasn't set on any wedding dress styles.  However, after showing me pictures of a dress that she almost bought, I knew we had to create something extra special, that would be as stunning as her wedding venue; the Queluz National Palace in Portugal.

With no real inspiration, other than a square neckline to frame her beautiful vintage Chanel choker, and love of a Thierry Mugler-esque peplum to throw into the mix, the start of our collaboration with Emily took on a different approach. We began experimenting with shapes from a length of calico, and from a simple skirt shape cascading ruffles flowed. I continued draping and pinning the calico until we agreed that this was the look - a pencil skirt, with ruffles forming a train at the back, on a corseted bodice with a plunging square neck and dramatic peplum -which would most flatter and compliment Emily.

After fittings in Lisbon and London the finished dress was simply breath taking. I think that Emily and her dress were more than a match for such a glamorous wedding location and we hope you agree.

"Our wedding day was so perfect, and my dress fitted like a glove. Everything on the day went so smoothly, and I have a few future brides to send to you!". 

Effortless Workwear

Several new clients have commissioned bespoke pieces for their working wardrobe. They’ve struggled to find quality designs that can be worn effortlessly, helping them look and feel confident for whatever the day ahead brings. A particular ‘hit’ has been a wool jersey jacket and dress suit we recently created, a simple, comfortable and elegant workwear staple, which has been ordered by several clients as a made to measure commission.

Other bespoke pieces have included various Linton and French tweed designs, including a jacket and dress in a black with gold thread; a specially woven stock fabric which one client has had her eye on for a while.

We’ve loved collaborating on workwear staples that clients don’t have to think about, pieces they can pull out of their wardrobe that work beautifully together and have timeless appeal.

Springtime in Paris

Spring is always such a beautiful time of year to visit Paris. Not that I needed an excuse for a quick day trip across the channel. I loved my recent trip to see the Dolce & Gabbana exhibition “From the Heart to the Hands” where exquisite embroidery and embellishments were worked on incredible collections of clothing.

Held at the Grande Palace this was a journey through several collections from creative designer duo, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana who I have long admired, and their work brings back memories of my time working in Italy during the mid 80’s.

The exhibition celebrated their passion for baroque style, with regional Italian styles of craftsmanship produced in their workshops as modern-day equivalents of their Renaissance predecessors. This was a perfect opportunity to appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of the embroidery, attention to details and the precision of the workmanship of the clothing and jewels. It was a real celebration of human creativity, the ability to express emotion and beauty through any medium.

Atelier
The sacred and secret place where the designer's dreams become reality. Mannequins padded to the clients body shape, show expertise in draping, corsetry and tailoring. Cases displaying precious embroideries, ornaments and trims. I dream to have a workroom as tidy as this!

White Baroque
Garments inspired by white stucco decorations of 16th century Baroque interiors in Sicily. Angels, scrolls and drapery worked sumptuously on a simple white ground. A combination of skilled hand work with 3D printing creates the stucco effects. Organza dresses embroidered with handmade flowers, sculpture sleeves with cherubs made of Mikado on crinoline and double organza. Too many words – you can tell I loved this part of the exhibition. Very skilled and perfectly executed.

Handmade

The "handmade" techniques draw on artisanal traditions of Italian regions and cities, which have also been settings for memorable D&G fashion shows and events: Taormina, Milan, Venice, Capri, Agrigento, Florence, Syracuse and Apulia.

The lace garments pay tribute to crochet techniques widespread in southern Italy.  Other garments feature figurative embroidery, or are embellished with gold, like the opulence of Neapolitan processions.  All are made with passion and lifelong skills in traditional decoration techniques, creating these incredible masterpieces of clothing, shoes, accessories and jewellery. 

Devotion
The heart is the symbol of love and life par excellence and the entire exhibition - "From the Heart to the Hands"- is presented as a journey from the heart and the passion of those who create beauty with their hands. A combination of talent, creativity and craftsmanship that leads to the creation of truly wearable works of art.

This incredible exhibition finished in Paris earlier this month after a sell-out run there and in Milan. Next destination is the Palazzo Esposizioni in Rome from 14 May – 13 August. Find out more here https://dolcegabbanaexhibition.com/

Dress Codes

Back in London I visited “Dress Codes” at Kensington Palace. This exhibition, on until the end of November, features never seen before and recognisable royal fashion treasures, explores the conventions of royal clothing and shows the evolution of dress codes.

I was particularly interested in the Royal Yacht uniform, as my Uncle joined the navy in 1956 and worked on the Royal Yacht Britannia so that sparked an interesting conversation with him about his time as an engineer and what his dress code was; this included white uniforms when overseas in the tropics. 

Highlights for me included stunning examples of traditional ceremonial uniform with incredible details and embroidery, Queen Victoria’s Mourning dress, the Duke of Windsor’s suits, in particular one that he inherited from his father George V, and an evening dress of Princess Margaret’s with the most exquisite traditional Filipino embroidered floral design. https://www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace/whats-on/dress-codes/

"Don’t be like the rest of them Darling" – Coco Chanel

I hope you enjoyed this update of what’s been happening in the atelier and when I’m out and about soaking in some fashion culture.

More of our news to follow next month, and until then don’t hesitate to get in touch if you’ve got a fabulous party to host, a wedding to attend, have your heart set on a new wardrobe staple or a bespoke piece for the workplace.  We’re here to make your fashion dreams a reality.